Four mountain ranges cross Ladakh Gt. Himalaya, Zanksar, Ladakh, and Karakoram -as do the river Indus and its tributaries the Zanskar Shingo and Shyok.The Zanskar runs its course of 120 km before joining the Indus at Nimmu near Leh,the capitol of Ladakh. During the winter month the frozen Zanskar provides the only access for Zanskaris into Ladakh. Ladakh also has the world's Largest Glaciers outside the polar regions, and the large and beautiful lake Pangong Tso, 150 km long and 4 km wide at a the highest of over 4000 mt., predominantly Budhhist. Zanskar has two subsidiary valleys, the stod (Doda Chu) and the Lung -Nak - Valley of darkness (Tsarap Chu) which converge below Padum,the capital. The Zanskar River flows along the valley from Padum to Zangla, then cuts through the Zanskar range in a series of impressive gorges to join the Indus. The main valley is approximately 300 km. Long and is ringed by Mountains so access to it is over one of the high passes. The most important are the Pensi La. connecting Zanskar with Suru valley in the west, the Umasi La with the Chenab Valley in the South and the Shingo La with Lahul in the east. This makes for very spectacular trekking country.
Jammu is the boarder Land with the Punjab, and the transitional zone between the plain and the mountains. To the north the Shivaliks give onto the Pir Panjal which attain highest of 5000m. The Vale of Kashmir, lies between the Pir Panjal and the High Himalaya, at an average altitude of 1580m. Rising behind the vale are the great Himalaya which culminate in the west with Nanga Parbat (naked mountain 8125m.). The Nagin and the Dal Lakes dominate Srinagar. Nearby is Ancher Lake.
Climate - Even in the Vale, the air in summer is fresh and at night can even be quite brisk. The highest daytime temperature in July rarely exceed 35*C but may fall as low as -11*C in winter. A short climb quickly reduces these temperatures. In Ladakh the sun cuts through the thin atmosphere, and daily and seasonal temperature variations are even wider. The rain bearing clouds drifting in from the Arabian Sea never reach Laddakh. Srinagar receives over 650 mm per annum whereas Leh has only 85 mm, much as snow. Over half Srinagar's rain comes with westerly depressions in the winter.
History- Ruled for many years by Scythian and then Tartar princes, Kashmir was captured by Shams-ud-Din, in 1341 who speared Islam across the Vale which subsequently became popular with the Mughals. Babur longed for the srteams and cool mountain air of the Hindu Kush. In 1588 the Mughal emperor Akbar conquered Kashmir and his son Jahangir (1605- 27), captivated by the beauty of the Vale of the Kashmir, planted Chenar trees and constructed pleasure gardens. At the close of the first Sikh War in 1846 Jammu the vale of Kashmir, Ladakh , Baltistan and Gilgit were assigned to the Maharaja Gulab Singh of Jammu, who founded a dynasty of Dogra Rajputs, descended from the Katoch branch of the Lunar race of Rajputs. Thus, Hindus ruled a Mainly Muslim Population of the Vale of Kashmir.
Rock carvings in Ladakh indicate that the region has been used for thousands of years by nomadic tribesmen who include the Mons of North India, the Dards,the Mangols and Changpa shepherds from Tibet. In Roman times Kashmir and Ladakh lay on a feeder of the great Silk Road that ran from China to the Mediterrannean. By the end of the 10th century, Ladakh was controlled by the Thi Dynasty, which founded a capital at Shey and built many forts. Tibetan Lamaistic Buddhism took hold at the same time and over 100 gompas were built. In 1533 Soyang Namgyal united the whole region up to the outskirts of Lhasa and made his capital at Leh. The Namgyal Dynasty still exists today and the Rani (queen) of stok was elected to the Indian Parliament. During the reigns of Senge Namgyal (circa 1570- 1620) and Deldan Namgyal (circa 1620- 60-)Ladakh was threatened from the south and west by the Baltis, who had enlisted the assistance of the Mughals. They were beaten back and the Namgyals extended Ladakhi power. The expansionist era cam to an end when fifth Dalai Lama of Tibet, Nawag Lobsang Gyatso (1617-82) persuaded the Mangols, whome he had converded to Buddhism, to enter a military campaign against west Tibet and Ladakh.The Ladakhis were unable to repel the invading Mangol forces and in desperation Delegs Namgyal turned to Kashmir for Help. The Mughal governor of Kashmir sent troops to help the king of Leh regain his throne but in return he had to pay regular tribute and build a Mosque.From than on the country became an extension of the Mughal Empire. In 1834 Zorawar Singh, an army general, cornered Ladakh and brought the area under the control of the Dogra Maharajah of Kashmir. The Dethroned royal family received the Stok Palace where they still live today.
Zanskar became an administrative part of Ladakh, under Senge Namgyal whose three sons became the rulers of Ladakh Guge and Zanskar /Spiti. This arrangement collapsed after Ladakh's war with Tibet and the Zanskar royal house divided, one part administrating Padum, the other Zangla. Under the Dogras rulers were reduced to puppets as the marauding army wreaked havoc on the villages, monasteries and population.
Culture- Culturally the people of Jammu, Kashmir and Ladakh could scarcely be more different from each other. The tennine million people are unevenly scattered. The vale of Kashmir has over half, whilst Ladakh is the most sparsely populated. Jammu was traditionally the seat of Dogra power and serves a largely Hindu population with its affinities more with Punjab than the Vale. Kashmir marks the northernmost advance of Islam in the Himalaya while Ladakh is aptly named "little Tibet". Ethnically the Ladakhis are Tibetan Stock. Indeed, it was once a province of Tibet and was governed in secular matters by an independent prince and in spiritual affairs by the Dalai Lama. Tibetian Changpas form the Bulk of the population in central and eastern Ladakh. These nomadic herdsmen can be seen living in black yak-hair tents on the mountains with their yaks, goats, and sheep. They still provide the fine Pashm goat wool. The Mons, nomads of Aryan stock, introduced Buddhism and established settlements in the valleys. The Droks and Dards from the Gilgit area settled along the Indus valley and introduced irrigation; many converted to Islam 300 years ago. Most are cultivators speaking a language based on Sanskrit. The Baltis with central Asian origin mostly live in the Kargil region. The Zanskaris are of the same stock as the Ladakhis and because of the sheer isolation of their homeland were able to preserve their Buddhist culture against the onslaughts of Islam. The Majority of Zanskaris are Buddhist, though there are Muslim families in Padum, the capital, dating from the Dogra invasion.
Kashmiri is influenced by Sanskrit and belongs to the Dardic branch of the Indo -Aryan languages. Linguistically and physically Kashmiris are similar to the tribes around Gilgit in Pakistan. The Ladakhis physically reveal Tibetan - Mongolian and Indo Aryan origins while their languages belongs to Tibetan -Burmese group.
Religion-In the Vale of Kashmir, 95% of the people are Muslim, the Majority being Sunnis, while in Jammu over 65% are Hindu. In Ladakh, 52% are Lamaistic Buddhist. Most follow Mahayana Buddhism of the Vajrayana sect with a Mixture of Bon animism and Tantric practices. The red Hat Drukpa (or Kagyupa) sect of Tibetan monestic Buddhists enjoys royal patronage. The reformist yellow hat sect are Gelupga Buddhists, and like the Dalai Lama, wear a yellow head dress with their maroon robes. The more ancient Nyingmapa Buddhist have their seat in Tak-thok. Ladakhi Lamas may also be physicians, teachers and astrologers; they also work in the fields, as do the Chomos(nuns).Nearly every family has a member who chooses to become a Lama (often the third son)or a Chomo. The most important in the Tibetan tradition are recognized reincarnate lamas (Trulku), who are born to the position. The Buddhist Gompas (monasteries) are places of worship, meditation and religious instruction and the structures, often sited on spectacular mountain ridges add to the attraction of the Landscape while remaining a central part of Ladakh life.Ladakh also has a large number of Shi'a Muslims, mainly in Kargil District, many being immigrant Kashmiris and Dards. Their mosque and Imambaras, influenced by Persian architecture, can be found in Leh proper and villages nearby.
The foundation of Sani in the 11th century is recognized as the first monastery in Zanskar. Phugtal and Karsha, Date from the same period. The sects developed alongside those in Ladakh. The Gelugpa (yellow hat) order was established in the 15th century and Monasteries at Karsha, Lingshet and Mune belong to this. The Drugpa sect set up monastries at Bardan and Zangla and 'occupied' that at Sani. These have links with Stakna near Leh and the Gelugpa is associated with the Lekir Monastery. Traditional Ladakhi and Zanskari life, Even today, comes close to Gandhi's idealized vision of in ancient India.
Handicrafts- Kashmir is renowned for its distinctive and fine handicrafts. Many of these developed when Srinagar was an enterepot on the ancient trans Himalayan trade route. High quality craftsmanship in India initially owed much to the patronage of the court and Kashmir was no exception. From the 15th century onwards, carpet making, Shawl weaving and embroidery and decorative techniques were actively encouraged and the tradition grew to demands made at home and abroad. Since tourism has been severely affected in the vale since 1989, Kashmiri tradesmen have sought markets in other parts of India.
Kashmiri shawls are world renowned, for their softness and warmth. The best are pashmina and shahtush, the latter being the warmest, the rarest and, consequently, the most expensive. Prized by Moghuls and Maharajas they found their way to Europe and through Napoleon's Egyptian campaign became an item of fashion in France. The craft was possibly introducted from Persia in the 15th century. Originally a fine shawl would take months to complete especially if up to 100 colours were used. The soft fleece of the Pashmina goat or the fine under hair of the Tibetan antelope were used,the former for Pashmina (cashmere) shawls, the latter for shahtush. The very best were soft and warm and yet so fine that they could be drawn through a finger ring. The designs changed over the years from floral patterns in the 17th century to Paisley in the 19th century. The Mughals especially Akbar, used them as gifts. However, with the introduction of the Jacquard loom, cheap imitations were mass produce at a fraction of the price but shawl weaving. The Kashmir shawls thus became luxury items, their manufacture remaining an important source of employment in the Vale, but they ceased to be the major export. Hand Knotted Carpets are available in Pure wool and mixed with cotton or silk. The patterns tend to the traditional, the Persian and Bukhara styles being common, though figurative designs such as the tree of life becoming increasingly popular. Young boys work with a master and it is common to hear them calling out the colour changes in a chant. Child labour in carpet making across north India is increasingly widely criticized. Government attempts to insist on limiting hours of work and the provision of schooling often seem to be ignored. A large carpet will take months to complete the price depending on the density of knots and the material used. Silk being by far the most expensive. The salesmen usually claim that only vegetable dyes are used and whilst this is true in some instance, more readily available and cheaper chemical dyes are commonplace. After Knotting the pile is trimmed with scissors, loose threads burnt off and the carpet washed and dried. Look for the rug mark awarded when no child labour is used.
Papier-mache boxes, trays, coasters make ideal gifts. Paper is soaked dried in a mould, then painted and lacquered. Traditionally, natural coloring was used (lapis lazuli for blue, gold leaf for gold, charcoal for black) but this is unlikely today. The Pattern can be highly intricate and the finish exquisite.
Other craft include crewel work (Chain stitching) on fabric, fur coats and 'Kashmiri silver' jewllery, silk and fine woodcarving, particularly on walnut wood. Srinagar- Founded by Raja Pravarasen in the sixth century and beautifully located around a number of lakes, Srinagar, the 'Beautiful city', is divided in two by the river Jhelum which is crossed by a number of bridges (Kadal). Despite the name, the beauty of Kashmir has never been reflected in that of its main town. The city's daily life revolves around the Dal and Nagin Lake but the lake of tourist has led to neglect.
Climate- temperature: summer maximum32*C, minimum 18*C. Heaviest rainfall in March (100mm), lightest in Nov (10mm).
The best time to visit: May- Sep.
Sights- The Jama Masjid (1674)is notable for the wooden pillars supporting the roof each made from a single deodar tree. To the southeast is the Rozahbal Mosque , which has the 'tomb of Jesus' (Holger Kerstin's Jesus lived in India recounts the Legend). Across the river is the Pattar Masjid (1623) built for the Empress Nur Jahan and renamed Shahi Mosque. Shankracharya Hill is behind the Boulevard. The temple was build during Jahangir's reign but is said to be over a second century BC temple built by Ashoka's son. The hill was known as Takht-I-Sulaiman - The thorne of Solomon.
The Most expensive spice in the world - saffaron
Pampore, 16 km from Srinagar, is the center of Kashmir's saffron industry. Saffron, a species of crocus (crocus sativus), grows here in abundance, and in a few other places in the world, and is harvested by hand. Within each purple bloom, the three orange red anthers yield pure Saffron. Over 4500 blooms make one ounce (28gm) of the spice, so the price of this delicate flavoring and coloring in cooking is high (once far more valuable than gold) its value has led the Indian Government to set up a saffron research farm at Sangla in Himanchal Pradesh.The precious orange coloured dye was used by and the colour saffron was chosen by Monks for their robes after the Buddha's death.
Jammu- Jammu, the second largest city in the state, is the winter capital of government and main entry point for Kashmir by rail. Not an attractive city, with few open spaces and too much traffic, it is chaotic with little to recommend it.
Sights- The Raghunath Temple (1857) in the old center is one of the largest temple complexes in North India. The temple has seven shrines, with gold plated interiors. The most important houses the Dogra's Patron deity, Rama, Vishnu's eighth incarnation. The arches and architectural details shows Mughal influence. Mornning and evening aartis are ritually attended.
The Rambiresvar Temple (1883) centrally located about 500 m from the Dogra art gallery on the Shalimar road. Is dedicated to Siva. It has a 75 m and extraordinary crystal lingams and is the largest Shiva temple in north India. The Bahu fort with its ruined ramparts stands on a rock face overlooking the river south of the city, the oldest remaining building in the region. The original structure was improved and rebuilt as the Mondi Palace (crica 1880 by the Dogra rulers. Bagh-A Bahu garden around the fort has a cafeteria. The old palace is now the High Court.
Bahu fort- Amar Mahal Museum - 0900-1230, 1330-1700, summer 09001230, 1330-1800, sun 1000-1200, closed Mon, Rs.5, fine views of the river but no photography, Rs 25 by auto-rickshaw, superbly sited on the bend of the Tawi, is Just off Srinagar road. There is a portrait gallery, Pahari paintings of Mahabharata scences and royal memorabilia. The early 20th- century palace is a curiosity; its French designer gave it chateau- like sloping roof and turrets. Four rooms are open but you can look into others through the windows.
Vaishno Devi - The Vaishno Devi cave is one of the important pilgrim sites. As the temple draws near you hear cries of 'Jai Mata Di' (victory of the Mother Goddess). Then at the shrine entrance, pilgrims walk in batches through cold ankle- deep water to the low and narrow cave entrance to get a glimpse of the deity.
The main pilgrimage season is March to July. The arduous climb along the 13-km trek to the cave temple has been re-laid, widened and tiled, and railings provided. Another road lower Sanjicht to the Darbar brings you 2 km. Closer with 300 m. less to climb. Ponies, dandies and porters are available from Katraat fixed rates. Auto-rickshaw and taxi can go as far as the Banganga checkpoint within six hours. Tea, snacks and drinks are available on the route.
Visitor should leave all leather items in a cloakroom at Vaishno Devi before entering the cave; carry bottled water and waterproofs. If you are on your own or in a small group, to avoid a wait for a group allocation, present yourself at gates1 or 2 and smile. Katra is an attractive town at the foot of the Trikuta Hills where visitors to the Vishno Devi cave can stay.
